Damien Carney is arguably one of the most accomplished hairstylists in the last 20 years. His has a keen eye to detail and ability to showcase one’s natural
Here’s the full excerpt of our interview with the multifaceted hairdresser:
An inside scoop of his background and professional career as well as personal style and type of hairdresser he is ….
I was born in the UK. I attended a 2 year full-time beauty school program to study hair in Birmingham. During that time I got a job in a unisex salon on Saturday’s. It was a cool trendy salon in the city center. It helped me balance my training at beauty school and hair in the real world of a busy modern salon. The salon I worked in on Saturdays you did everything as a stylist. You cut, colored, men’s hair, you did it all. Departmentalised color or chemical departments were rare at that time. After beauty school. I took a full time position in the salon I worked in on Saturdays. They had a good training program and it is where I continued my training, eventually becoming a stylist. I knew I wanted more from my career. I wanted to be the best I could be. I saw a job advertised in Hairdressers Journal for a stylists position at Jingles International in London. (Jingles was a pretty big player in the hair industry at that time – they no longer exist) for the interview, I had to do a trade test. Show hair cuts on real models. I passed but required extra training to get my self familiarized with the Jingles methodology and culture. Eventually I was became a stylist. Jingles was known for its education and they had an academy, which was a whole new, exciting world to me. I was hooked on education and all the exciting opportunities.After my time with Jingles. I went to Trevor Sorbie in Covent Garden, London. I became a teacher at the Trevor Sorbie Academy of hair. I travelled, worked at the academy full time. Such an amazing time and experience.
There comes a time in one’s life that you sometimes have to fly the nest and do something on your own. Create your own business, culture, path. I opened a salon in Covent Garden London. There were 4 partners, 2 looked after the salon, and 2 looked after the education, show and seminar part of the business. It was successful, however after 10 years I decided I wanted more time for me. More time for Damien time. What do I want to do, what do l really want?
I decided to leave the salon partnership and create Damien Carney Professional. I traveled worldwide conducting education, shows and seminars which I continue to do now.
I was approached by a leading hair care manufacturer to move to the USA. I wasn’t really looking to move from London. I went to Los Angles for an interview and thought I would give it a go. I’m a believer in trying different things, different oppprtunites etc.
I thought I’ll go to LA and after a few months, I’ll return back to the UK. Well weeks and months flew by, I was enjoying the experience. And here I am still in the USA enjoying every second of it. I now live in NYC. I enjoy the offerings of a large city. Always some thing to do, something to see, always alive. I fly home to London once a month. The flight between NY and London is relatively easy and quick.What kind of hairdressers am I – On a skill level. Im pretty technical.
But thats a reflection of the time i was trained. In the 70’s. I believe you have to be great technically and creatively. If were too technical then our work can be too rigid, structured and lacks any real creative emotion. If were too creative then we can often have “Creative chaos”. Too many things going on, on one head, ideas that have no real purpose or reason. I like to combine my technical skills and creative skills. I like to work with the hair’s natural texture as much as possible. Based on the clients, lifestyle, suitability etc. I like to try new things, l like to experiment.
On whether he was destined to be in the hair industry and where trained and experiences and
Yes! Hair was for me for sure. I knew 100% that I wanted to be a hairdresser.
As a child I was fascinated by how hair can change the look of a person. And most importantly, how it makes them feel, especially when a client wears a look that they love. I love what I do from the day I started till now. Most people choose a career with little of no thought to the impact it has on our daily life. As a result they often live very unhappy lives. Love what you do and everything falls into place.
My training, never stops and it should always be that way. What I/we studied 10, 15, 20 years ago might not work for what is “current” for today. It’s important to stay aware of what’s happening in fashion, hair and beauty. If we don’t get on board and stay current, we simply get left behind. Being in a rut or being bored is the result of lack of stimulation or the lack of not continuing your education. Lots of education leads to a long and happy, successful career.
The biggest influence regarding my training was my training at Trevor Sorbie, Covent Garden Landon.
Prior to working at Trevor Sorbie. I worked in a salon in my early 20’s that encouraged lots of ongoing training. One educational event changes my life. The salon owner encouraged the staff to attend an evening show called the Wella /Vogue (British Vogue magazine). It was a photographic competition, similar to a lot of the photographic competitions of today. During this 3 hour evening event, there were mini presentations by famous hairdressers. One of them being Trevor Sorbie. Little did I know that this evening show/event would literally change my career forever. Trevor’s presentation blew me away. I had never seen hair like that before. I remember thinking, “how on earth did he do that?” The models, the music, the amazing hair, it exposed me to a whole new level. Trevor had such a huge impact on me at that event, so much I wanted to work for him. I eventually plucked up the courage to apply as a stylist. He replied and asked that Ihave an interview and I would need to bring 3 models to cut for him, 3 specific techniques: One length, layering and a graduated haircut. The 3 ways of cutting hair.
From those 3 hair cuts Trevor could see clearly my technical skills. I remember cutting more of my fingers than anything else. I rarely cut my fingers, lol ! It was all my nerves, we do strange things when were nervous! There was a lot of pressure as Trevor Sorbie was checking my hair cuts. I got the job, on the basis that I needed to do some more training and refining as well as getting familiar with the Trevor Sorbie methodology and culture. The intense 6-week training involved refining all my hair cutting skills. I had to go back and study one length, layering and graduation to perfection. At the end of the training period, it was required that I present 12 pre-done hair cuts on live models for an evening presentation. This was always done on a Friday. Trevor would check every haircut, section by section on every model. This was the last and final part of the training (the pressure was on for sure). You either passed or failed and you were fired. Thankfully I passed. The training was life changing as it allowed me to control my work at a much higher level and to clearly understand each technique and method. I started as a stylist at his Covent Garden Salon and then was promoted to a teacher at The Trevor Sorbie Academy Of Hair in Saville Row, London -the most prestigious hair academy at that time. Another mind blowing experience. This opened my world to seminars, shows, photoshoots, runway and so much more.
More on his company ‘Damien Carney Professional’ and motivated him to launch his own company or more specifically
Inspiration for me is not looking in or at the “obvious” places or ways of doing things. I like to look through things, around things, turn things up side down, back to front, etc. Mix it all up and put it together in a new way. New ideas often come from mistakes or things that really did turn out the way it was supposed to be. But something new, fresh or cool developed on its own. One has to be open to being inspired. If you don’t have an open mind then new ideas cannot be explored or executed. I work on the theory of don’t knock it till you’ve tried it. Have a go. Try something that you haven’t done before. What’s to lose, everything to gain. Fear often stops us from moving forward or being inspired, the fear of failure, the fear of being exposed, the fear of appearing stupid. I have failed more times than I have succeeded, that to me is part of life.
I get my inspiration from a lot of sources: fashion, photography, movies, people, street culture, and music. But I have to be in the mood to be inspired. It comes to me at unexpected times and or situations. It’s like having another sense. When it does come, I go with the flow. I don’t force my creativity or inspiration. The times I’ve tried to force myself to be creative or inspired, it generally back fires and doesn’t work for me. I go with the flow. I’ve learned to trust my gut and my instincts they rarely let me down.
As a visionary hairstylist and Educator, educating and mentoring entails a balance of inspiration and creativity, he explains how his brand and its ongoing success is manage ….
It’s an natural evolution. We have to keep moving forward and reinvent things, cuts, colors, finishing, creating products, and creating formats. One must have a sense of how the world of hair is today verses 5, 10, 15 years ago. It’s that simple! Hairdressers want to be inspired, they want to learn new things, and they want to start current. That has never really changed in my opinion. However, we have to rethink and or reformat education programs to meet the needs of busy stylists today. More interaction and more effective techniques. Keep hair relevant, modern and fresh. What you put into things is what you get out of it.
I offer all types of education, except coloring, I do not color hair. Cutting, finishing, editorial, photography, team building, teacher training are some of the programs that I offer. Anyone can hire me for a day, two or more and I work out a program or format to suit the clients needs. I pack my bags and go any where world wide. I’m experiencing salon owners or stylists want me to go to them at their salon or choice of location. They don’t have the time or desire to travel to an academy like the past. Hairdressers also want unique programs that fit their work and style. I can do that. Create a program just for them. Shorter 2/3 day programs are very popular as the hairdresser can return to work quickly with out losing revenue.
Social media has had a huge impact – good and bad. I still believe that attending a seminar and or a hands-on program is the best format for learning. It’s real, interactive and all the important details do not get over looked. Practice! Practice will always improve ones work and overall standard.
He has an impressive portfolio, dating back to when he worked with Trevor Sorbie and a unique team of well-known artists like Eugene Souleiman, Vivienne MacKinder, Antoinette Beenders. For those wanting to have similar experiences and have the same opportunities today, it can be quite challenging. He shares about how that experience was for him and how the obstacles he faced helped him reach where you his today ….
Meeting such an impressive roster of artists only happened because I joined Trevor Sorbie. Otherwise, I would have never been exposed to such amazing talent. I made the first move and approached Trevor for a job. One has to be proactive and take the bull by the horns and who knows what is possible. It’s so much easier to connect with the right people today via email and social media. So start connecting. What are you waiting for?!
I believe if you want to be great at anything in life. Surround yourself with great people. That simple! As a young hairdresser, I was nervous and worried about saying no to things and or participating in conversations on how to do things.
Today I often say no. No is not meant to be negative. No means I’m not interested or I’m not excited or I’m not the right fit to the job and/or project. Too much time can be wasted in salons that don’t care. Go work in a salon that does care. You might have to relocate or move to another city. Would you do that? How important is your career to you?
Only join a salon that offers continuous education. Continuous education is how we stay on top of our game. Don’t grow old with your business, your clients and your techniques. I went to Trevor Sorbie for one thing only: to be the best I could be in the hair world. So l went to the top. I’m still learning today. Trevor is one amazing, iconic hairdresser. I learned not only his cutting techniques, styling techniques, etc. but I got to learn and study how he thinks – what is his thought process. his beliefs, his culture as well as makes him and his team successful.
I learned that positive and or creative energy attracts positive results. Working with these artists opened up windows in my mind that I didn’t realize existed. If you think you’re going to have a creative day, most likely you will. All a state of mind.
What I learned about the team at Trevor Sorbie is that each artist is unique. Each person has a slightly different point of view. They all have something to offer, something to give and something to contribute. As a previous salon owner, I wouldn’t want all my staff to be the same, like robots. But they must all be on the same bus or highway. So we’re a ‘team’. There were no obstacles to avoid. If I do come up on an obstacle, I’ll find my way of working around it and or facing it full on. There are lessons to learn from obstacles.
My tip is don’t be shy of approaching a salon you admire for a job. Don’t be shy of reaching out to be part of a particular team. You’ll get a yes or no response. What do you have to lose?! Be prepared to work hard, look, listen, and digest all the great things around you.
Don’t be a jack of all trades. Focus on what you love and be an expert. Don’t be complacent and always stay motivated even if it’s a tough time. Be happy and positive. What we put out there is what we get back. Most importantly, have fun. It should be fun.
Your portfolio includes music and film stars clients, he shares how he went about deciding the looks for them and more about his creative process and working with designers, models and hairstylists ….
It all starts off with a concept. An idea. A thought. Some concepts are clearly defined and mapped out to the finest detail.
A concept usually comes from an Art Director, client and or Photographer. They will have a clear idea of how the photography looks as well as make up, wardrobe, model choices etc. The Art Director will choose the artists involved to best suit the concept. Most importantly who are the images speaking too and potential clients. What are the images saying? What are you selling? What needs to be achieved from a hair point of view in relation to the concept? Alternatively, if you’re doing a shoot that is very creative to build images for ones portfolio and or for social media, the concept is a bit more playful and fluid. Not so literal. It’s more about experimenting. If I’m given detailed, specific directions of how the hair should look in a shoot, then I have to deliver the looks required to stay with in the concept. Study your hair history and make sure you can deliver any hair style at any given time. Practice, practice and most importantly I have to be mindful, respectful of the concept and what the client desires. The hair look must compliment the teams work.
If I’m doing a shoot on my own, for myself where I act as a photographer and hair stylist, the rules are different for a concept. I would lead the ‘concept’ for the shoot. I would have a concept for my hair. Concept for makeup, wardrobe, photography, etc. A concept is get your team on board with an idea that one has in mind. Without a concept it can be disastrous as there’s no leader and or anyone direction. Confusion can be a problem. too many or too little ideas. If I’m working with my regular shoot team, then I will open the concept more to the team. I will get feedback, ideas and the team’s interpretation of how the shoot concept develops. It’s trusting your team to bring some thing to the shoot. But this has to be managed, too many ideas can cause creative chaos. It can end up being very messy. On the other hand, it can be quite amazing. Photoshoots are all about energy and connecting with the team you’re working with. Most importantly, it’s the relationship and connection between the model and photographer both bring the concept to life.
I’ve been in situations where the concept has not worked. The concept is too literal and restricting. It didn’t work. And an alternative plan was worked out that suited the client and project. It’s knowing when to move on and with gears to something else rather than forcing a concept that will never work. But that all is down to experience.
I shoot all my own images now. And love that I’m learning more and more when you look through the lens. It gives me more control over my images and concepts. I would encourage anyone to start taking photos of your work. It’s amazing what you see, but more amazing what the camera sees. You learn another way of seeing things. You learn all about the details that some time can easily get over looked.
Hair trends are visual on social media, and magazines, people seem to always look for the next cool thing to do with their hair. He reveals his thoughts on hair trends and whether people should be inspired or guided to choose based on the latest trends ….
Trends are wonderful. They create excitement about what is new or what might be reinvented in a fresh way. Its all about evolution. The trends of today are different from the past, in the sense of there is no longevity and less dictating than trends in the past. With social media you post some thing and its immediately old or seen. Next, next, next ! But there are great PR benefits to social media. In the past, trends had very clear ideas and directions. You embraced them, you liked them or you didn’t. I look back now and feel trends of the past were a bit limited. Unlike trends today, there are trends and sub trends more than one trend going on at one time; Something for long hair and something for short hair. Is that good or bad? For me, there’s something for everyone. Clients are aware of trends and will follow for sure that will not change. But they want some thing that works for them: their hair, their lifestyle, their body shape. We live in a sociality of the ‘I’s’: I want that, Idon’t like that, I want it to work for me. Clients are very clear today about what they want, what they like and what they don’t like.
Bottomline, I want my clients to feel beautiful no matter if it’s trendy or not. I’m all for total suitability.
Social media is great it give clients and give us hairdressers instant access to lots of images, updates and information instantly. However, clients need to be aware of the limitations sometimes. Just because they show us an image, it doesn’t mean it’s the right thing for them and or it is achievable. That’s where we become the expert and discuss and consult on other options for that client.
The future of printed magazines will probably go away. Who knows where it will go?! As most magazines are not selling like they once did. Some magazines have embraced and gone digital and gone green. Only the strong will survive in the magazine world as a lot of advertising that once supported the magazines revenue is dwindling. The world of digital is now and will only get stronger we have to embrace and work it into our every day hair world.
Tabatha Coffey pretty much handpicked your work for many of her latest book photos and include you in extensive fashion shoots. He shares whether he was aware of this beforehand and what it means to him to be acknowledged by Tabatha Coffey ….
l’ve known Tabatha for a long time. We have travelled the world together conducting shows, seminars, photoshoots, etc.
I’ve always talked about doing a shoot with Tabatha and I would do her hair. She picked me. Lucky me! I’ve been cutting her hair off and on for sometime. But only when we can both get time to see each other. We both live in NYC, so we try and catch up when were both free. She’s an amazing woman and has inspired so many hair stylists and people of all walks of life around the world. She has stayed true to herself. She is always willing to help anyone she can. A great example to all. A great inspiration to me.
He reveals what influences him to be a fantastic hairdresser and what he would say is the work that made him the proudest. Additionally, what other creative avenues his sees himself taking in the near future …
There is no list of people as such. As influences come and go inso many ways. I could look at a fashion spread in a magazine and think ‘wow’. I’ll try that. I’ll try pushing my self out of my box.
I could be sharing and teaching a hairstylist and have a real connection with them and, most importantly, the ‘wow’ moment for them. I got it. The light bulb moment.
I consider myself very fortunate to have been surrounded and trained by some incredible talent. That were kind enough to me to see something that I couldn’t see. They were patient, encouraging, and giving me a hug. A push to always do better and to move forward. What influences me more to be a better or fantastic hairdresser is to give back and share what information and or skills I have been given to some one else. My mentors and trainers have had the biggest influence on me.
As for the future, I love what I’m doing now and do not see any real career change or different directions. I am loving my photograph. I’m proud of what I have achieved. Still learning and studying my photographic techniques. I do not desire to become a professional photographer. I love hair too much. I can do hair and photography. A dream! I just want to be with people that love hair as much as I do. Doesn’t have to be a huge group and or circle. I will continue educating worldwide. Quality verses quantity.
His Instagram page @damiencarneypro has many wonderful creative colors and haircuts that complement the look. Damien shares how important is social media to his business and if he prefers a more organic approach?
l’ve had many, many, many discussions about social media with hairdressers, clients, and hair manufacturer’s with mixed points of view. I think there is some great things on social media and things that are not so good.
Social media is important to my business. It’s a PR machine. You can use it how ever you like and whenever you like with no cost. Well there is a cost, the cost of the time you spend on it and the cost of creating content. I don’t really care to much about how many followers I have. The actual numbers. I’m more into who I’m connecting with and the community that is created. My attitude is, work, Instagram, social media how every you want. Do what works for you. I’m more organic and do not have any desire to be a slave to social media. I know who I like on Instagram. I know who I like to follow on instagram. The rest doesn’t matter.
He talks about what education is to him and how important is it to stay updated with the latest trends and techniques ….
I don’t believe you always have to sit in a clas room to be educated. Education can be walking the streets of the city you live in, but with an open mind and see things that we often over looked on a daily basis. What do you see?! Stop and take it all in.
Education can be reading a book, social media, and watching a video. Conversations can be very educational and listening to other points of view. We learn and educate by listening, watching, seeing and doing. I like to get to work on a mannequin or model and educate my self on techniques. Artistry that I want to master and or improve.
Education is to self improve. To improve on something you already know about, but you want to make it better. Master a certain technique and or look. Education is like fuel we need to keep education as part of our work life. We are in an industry where things change so quickly. Education keeps us updated, motivated and inspired to keep moving forward to the future.
Those who choose not to continue their education can simply get left behind in the industry. What they learned in the past does not, or may not work for today and the future. It can be so easy to repeat and rely on our favorite cut and color technique time and time again. However, there is nothing wrong with that. If that’s what your looking for in your career.
I definitely believe that clients love to hear about your education experiences. It shows you care. It shows you know whats current and happening in our world. Clients love to hear about the latest look and or trend even if the trend is not right for them. We have to be the expert in what we do and what we say.
I believe this separates you from the crowd and your competition. We cannot rely on how we always used to do things. Some things will stay the same. But some things must change. The never ending change of trends will go on with us or with out us. So for me, I try to embrace what is coming and what is going away. I don’t like all the trends and hair directions that come and go. But Ilike to keep an open mind and embrace them.
Education is vital for any salon – it keeps your team current. Your team feel part of a caring culture. Your team always have a goal. It creates a good feel factor. It’s a fact that most assistants and stylists leave a salon because the salon/ salon owner does not offer continuous education. Most importantly, education should be fun and enjoyable. Happy team. Happy salon. Successful salon !
Would he say there is a specific person that has really impacted the way the way he educates? Hi answer ….
Yes, Trevor Sorbie when I retrained in London. There was a consistent method to everything that was taught in the training programs – beginner to advanced. The training I received removed all my bad habits and average workmanship. I learned to understand why I would use a specific technique and why I would use that technique on certain hair textures and lengths. On different face and body shapes etc. There is always a plan of action to ever thing we do.
It strengthened my technical skills, which also opened my creative skills. We need both technical and creative skills to be successful.
I learned how to navigate my way thought a hair cut effectively. Where to start and where to finish in a controlled, time effective manner.
Trevor simplified everything not only in the techniques, but verbally and how we can easily and simply communicate the TS education to other hairdressers attending the academy. Sometimes we over think or over analyse things for no real reason. Teaching or sharing information is where I learned most. How do I explain this technique clearly? Am I making sense of this technique? l’ve learned more from teaching than any other part of my career
The one thing that he wishes he had been told before embarking on a professional career in hairdressing is ….
Don’t be shy of saying no when needed. Like a lot hairdressers, I was really very shy. It wasn’t till my mid 20’s that I became more confident. If you asked me to do anything, I would literally do it. Seriously anything. I would never have the nerve or confidence to say no. I don’t use no often. But if I think something is unprofessional or I don’t believe it is right, I will politely say no. I’ll pass on that, or not l don’t think this is for me. I don’t believe you have to agree on everything with every body and be a yes person. I value and respect other opinions and worth ethics. Some may not be for me.
On what he does in his spare time when you are not working ….
Think lol, similar to some hairdressers. At the end of the week, like Saturday, when I get home I don’t want to talk for any hour or so. I’m all talked out. lol. I like to decompress, an hour late I want to talk.
I try not to talk too much hair. Now I love hair don’t get me wrong. I think its important to have a mixture of friends that are not hairdressers. It opens my mind. I love to eat, so I work my way around NYC for all kinds of food. I rarely go to the same place twice. Too many great new places to explore.
I love safari so I take my camera and click, click. Something about getting away from the busy city. However I love large, big cities. They have it all, all walks of life. All great things to see and do. I cycle. I don’t do subways in NYC, not that I’m a subway snob. I usually walk and cycle. Hanging with my great friends and family. Very, very important. They can bring calm and balance to our amazing busy hair world.
Website; www.damiencarney.com
Instagram account; damiencarneypro
Facebook Account: damien carney professional
Twitter Account: damiencarney
Images: Damien Carney
